Summer Daze at Villa Làrio
Picture a butter-yellow palazzo on the shore of Lake Como, surrounded by a luscious garden and towering cedar trees, subtly scented by roses and jasmine. Waves lap against the wall beneath your balcony, the swimming pontoon beckoning with its signature tangerine deck chairs. Negronis are mixed, beautifully intricate dishes are prepared, and a vintage wooden speedboat awaits to whisk you off to a neighbouring lemon grove.
This is Villa Làrio, nestled against the cliffs of the eastern shores of Lake Como’s ‘left leg’ and sprawling over four storeys, linked by an impressive glass elevator. The lakeside seven-suite villa (dating back to the late nineteenth century) is the jewel of Villa Làrio’s crown – although two other buildings, Villa Bianca and the Pavilion also offer a scattering of suites higher up on the cliffs, alongside the infinity pool and fine dining restaurant, the Belvedere. The appeal of these cliffside suites is obvious (dramatic vistas of the lake and the forest-covered mountains that rise above it) but I’m delighted to discover I’ll be spending my stay right on the waterfront.
Immediately upon arrival, we (I’m travelling with six other seasoned travellers and hotel connoisseurs) are swept to our lakeside table at Casa Lario, the villa’s less formal bottega and cocktail bar. While the water twinkles in the sun just below, we’re wined and dined by Chef Davide Maci and knowledgeable sommelier Paul. The former serves up a seemingly never-ending spread of freshly prepared local delicacies, while the latter educates us on the very finest regional wines. Long and languid, a very Italian late lunch effortlessly transitions into carrying glasses of fizz down to the private pier for the first of many dips.
I’m at my happiest when I’m beside a lake, so I couldn't be more thrilled with the direct access to Lake Como’s refreshing waters. The pier bobs gently in the waves, lulling you into a deep sense of calm as you take a coveted seat on one of the deck chairs. If your idea of lakeside relaxation involves a plunge rather than a lounge, leap or climb directly into the depths (Lake Como is one of Europe’s deepest lakes at up to 425 metres, so forget about touching the bottom).
Post-swim, the Italian traditions continue with aperitivo. We gather above the pier, where armchairs are scattered right above the water for hor d'oeuvres and cocktails, before being whisked back to our lunchtime table for a candlelit dinner. Villa Làrio and chef Davide excel at al fresco feasts; an almost-too-pretty-to-eat courgette starter is followed by an Italian take on a seafood paella, both dripping with flavour. But the highlight is surely dessert: tiramisu, served from the middle of the tray for the very best bits. This writer who doesn’t usually have a sweet tooth asks for seconds..
Despite being full of Italy’s most iconic sweet treat, there’s only one thing on my mind. Following a swift change, I’m back in the lake, beneath a starlit sky, enjoying a long swim in the now glass-like waters. As I swim, the heady scent of jasmine drifts across the water, tempting me back to shore. I adore nothing more than staying in waterfront hotels for this very reason: bookending my days with swims before bed and first thing in the morning. Prior to that promised dawn dip, I sleep in my lake-facing room with the balcony door flung open, drifting off to the soothing sounds of the water.
Following a blissful night’s sleep and my morning swim, breakfast is reached via the glass elevator or a charming stone staircase winding up the cliffs. After nibbling and sipping refreshments beneath a canopy of trees, I check out the infinity pool, flanked by French artist Nathalie Decoster’s ‘Passing of Time’ sculpture, a figurative representation of the shape of the lake. I’m an open water swimmer myself, but have to admit the pool is particularly lovely for those who prefer a more contained dip.
I take some time to wander around the property, soaking up the contrast between the rich blues of the lake and greens of the garden with local designer Pietro Castagna’s monochrome interiors.
The lake is centrefront everywhere; Castagna designed both the interiors and architecture to frame the water from every angle. Le Pavillion’s rooms feel like being on the deck of a boat, while the palazzo’s large windows show off the proximity of that sparkling azure water.
The historical features of the palazzo elegantly juxtapose with its contemporary additions: a modern extension on the first floor combines a chequerboard floor with glass ceiling and walls, exposing the luscious garden and offering a view of that great glass elevator. My suite lies off this vestibule; black marble bathroom contrasting with the airy bedroom, where the balcony overlooking the lake offers a spot to sip your coffee or negroni.
However impressive these contemporary additions to the villa may be, it’s the loggia overlooking the lake that takes my breath away; a meeting place between inside and out covered in beautifully decorative frescoes. I’m told an eye is hidden among the patterns, as is often the case with old Italian murals. I gaze at the walls determined to discover it, yet remain oblivious to its whereabouts.
Via a local ferry, our group heads to Como to meet with chef Davide to visit a market; gathering cheese, meat and vegetables for his culinary creations is our mission, sampling the goods along the way. We taste a smorgasbord of cheese, cured meats and fruit as we wander around the Mercato Coperto di Como, a traditional indoor market frequented by locals and chefs such as Davide. Back at the villa, we’re treated to a light lunch of the most deliciously fresh pasta I think I’ve ever tasted, brimming with sweet and juicy tomatoes.
I spend the remainder of the day barefoot, wandering in the garden for shade between lake swims and jetty lounges. As my companions dive and leap, I’m content to bob up and down in the gentle waves. Lakeside negronis effortlessly transition into balcony spritzes as the sun descends behind the mountains on the opposite side of the lake. Pognana Lario, where Villa Làrio lies, is a sleepy region where evenings are serenaded by bird song and (on this particular night) the atmospheric distant rumble of thunder. As the sun sets, the vista across the lake illuminates with lights reflecting in the water (including those of the home of Como’s most famous resident, a certain Mr Clooney).
Aperitivo in the garden is followed by a journey up the elevator to the Belvedere for Chef Davide Maci’s tasting menu. Illuminated by candlelight (and the occasional flash of lightning over the lake) six exquisitely presented courses are presented, each as delicious as they are beautiful. Davide has a long-standing relationship with Como, his love and appreciation for produce sourced from around the lake apparent in his cooking. The menu reads like a love letter to Italian cuisine, seafood, tomatoes and fresh herbs punctuating its dishes.
My final morning in Como begins with a refreshing swim, naturally, before boarding a traditional wooden speedboat. We’re visiting a local family-owned lemon grove, for a closer look at Como’s homegrown produce. After briefly imagining myself as a Bond girl as we whoosh down the lake, I’m transported back to my wholesome, nature-loving self as I wander the winding path up the cliffside grove. Gigantic lemons grow beside a vast variety of other citrus fruit, among olive trees, rose bushes and raspberry canes. We sample the fruits as we stroll, accompanied by free-roaming chickens and the owner’s inquisitive labrador.
Back down by the shore, lunch is a help-yourself ‘posh picnic’ affair, flaunting the wares gathered from yesterday’s market trip. Ripe, tasty cheeses and prettily displayed salad are accompanied by fresh sourdough, homemade olive tapenade and pickles, and melt-in-the-mouth burrata. To wash it all down, an Italian take on a French 75 with fresh-as-it-gets lemon juice.
Back at Villa Làrio’s own two hectares of cliffside property, there’s time for one final dip before our airport transfer. As I prepare to leave I realise there’s one thing I have yet to do. Just as we begin to file in the direction of the elevator I finally spot it: the hidden eye in the loggia’s fresco, winking at me as if to say ‘see you again soon’.
Text & pictures - Emma Lavelle @emmajaynelavelle
@villalario
www.villalario.com