Edinburgh
Edinburgh Castle by Archibald Burns
In this exclusive city guide, writer and local Alley Marie Jordan invites you to experience Edinburgh not as a tourist, but as a flâneur. Having called Scotland’s historic capital home for nearly a decade, Alley reveals a side of the city that thrives in the quiet moments: the scent of old books in hidden second-hand shops, the ritual of a perfect morning canelé, and the timeless beauty of the Royal Botanic Gardens. Whether you are drawn to the nostalgic charm of Victorian herbalists or the sleek lines of minimalist Japandi cafés, this guide is your map to the soul of the city. It’s time to slow down, wander the green spaces, and truly learn what it means to live like a local.
I have been living in Edinburgh for almost ten years, and each time a new café pops up, or a new shop or bookstore, I feel like I am meeting it anew, despite the historic architecture and rich history. Unlike busied London to the south, Scotland’s capital, Edinburgh, is for the slow traveller. Edinburgh is for the traveller keen on getting to know a place beyond the museums and tourist traps. If you choose to, you can visit Edinburgh and truly get to know it like a local. You can leave this small city with an understanding of what it is like to live here. Things move more slowly in Edinburgh, especially in the rain. No one is in a hurry to get anywhere because anywhere is only a 30-minute walk away. The stress of city-life does not exist in Edinburgh due to its many green spaces and charming bookshops. If you seek the vintage lifestyle, wanting to step back in time, you will find that in Edinburgh. Alternatively, if you seek sleek modernism and Japandi cafés, you will also find that in Edinburgh. Many travellers come to Edinburgh as part of a larger UK trip. So, if you’ve only got a day, here is a slow itinerary that allows you to pop into shops and cafés as you flâner about town. My favourite things to do in Edinburgh are to visit gardens, pick up an old book at second-hand shop and read in a café. So, I will share with you my favourite places in all three categories.
Coffee, Old Books and the Botanical Gardens
The Royal Botanic Gardens of Edinburgh are famous for its history, Victorian palm houses and the 18th-century Botanic Cottage. But before you venture into its wonderland of plants and curious flowers, grab a quick breakfast at Project Canelé on Dundas Street. If you are arriving from Princes Street and New Town, walking down the hill toward Dundas Street will delight you with art galleries and cafés, but my favourite is Project Canelé because, as the name suggests, they bake canelés, one of the only places in the city to do so (the other Lannan in Stockbridge, also one of the city’s best bakeries). Aside from their delectable pastries, you can get a sandwich and a bag of Spanish crisps (the jamón flavour is exceptional). The Scandi interior is bright, clean and cool. If, like me, you are a canelé connoisseur, these ones will transport you back to Bordeaux. The crisp shell is lightly burnt as it should be, while the spongy interior is moist and airy. Just perfect.
Next door is the Artisan Pastamaker, where you can purchase freshly-made pasta to take to your AirBnB, or you can dine in at one of their four small tables.
As you venture down to the Botanics, take note of WineKraft, a natural wine shop that does free tastings after 15:00 on Fridays. They also have a small deli and sell artisanal bread.
If you enjoy Garden History, then I would make a beeline to the Botanic Cottage, which is a small house that was moved, brick by brick, from another area of town during the early 1800s. The Cottage now houses a kitchen garden where apple and pear trees are grafted in the historical way. Various produce and herbs are also grown, including lettuces, poppies, peas, and medicinal plants like lavender, chamomile and sage.
On your way out of the Botanics, do pop into The Gently Mad bookshop, which is a wee second-hand bookshop á la Alice in Wonderland, that also sell antiquarian books and provides a bookbinding service.
Around the same area is Ochre Botanical Studios, which sometimes offers floristry workshops, accompanied by gin cocktails. Definitely plan your visit around one of their bouquet or floral bowl workshops. All of their botanicals are locally grown at their garden plot at the Granton Walled Garden.
If you find yourself more centrally situated, find yourself in Napier’s Herbalists, which has been in the same spot since the Victorian age. Here you will step back in time to purchase botanical creams, tinctures, teas and salves, all made by the in-house herbalists. The interior will take you back to the 1860s, just across the street from the University of Edinburgh.
If you fancy some local wares, Lifestory on London Street is a must-visit. The Scandi-inspired shop is nestled amongst the Regency-era architecture and is full of Japanese stationary, local stoneware, local cookery books, clean skincare and more.
Here are some of my favourite places that are not photographed here (there are so many!)
Cafés
Cafén, a minimalist Japandi vibes. Find them at 44 Dundas St, Edinburgh EH3 6JN.
Margot, quaint with excellent food, book in advance if you’re seeking brunch. Find them at 7-8 Barclay Terrace, Edinburgh EH10 4HP.
Twelve Triangles, bakery and café with the best cardamom buns in the city. Find them dotted all over town.
Artisan Roast, small cafés with strong coffee, they also sell canelés from Project Canelé. Find them dotted all over town, though my favourite is in Bruntsfield at 138 Bruntsfield Pl, Edinburgh EH10 4ER.
Ante, underground serving the smoothest coffee in the city with fun pastries. Find them at 1b Haddington Pl, Edinburgh EH7 4AE.
Wine
Leftfield, next to Margot (café above), great wine and food with views of the park. Find them at 12 Barclay Terrace, Edinburgh EH10 4HP.
Whighams, est’d 1766, set underground in an historic building with a great wine list. Find them at 13 Hope St, Edinburgh EH2 4EL.
Spry, upstairs from Ante (mentioned above), great wine list, minimalist interior. Find them at 1 Haddington Pl, Edinburgh EH7 4AE.
Bookshops
McNaughtan’s Antiquarian/Typewronger, Scotland’s oldest second-hand bookshop tucked underground. Find them next door to Ante (mentioned above) at 3a Haddington Place, Edinburgh EH7 4AE.
Toppings, new book emporium that serves free coffee/tea upstairs if you ask for it. Find them at 2 Blenheim Pl, Edinburgh EH7 5JH.
Argonaut, new books with a café attached. Find them at 15-17 Leith Walk, Edinburgh EH6 8LN.
Rare Birds, women-only writers bookshop in a great neighbourhood. Find them at 13 Raeburn Pl, Edinburgh EH4 1HU.
Shopping
Biscuit, colourful clothes with lots of prints, two locations, but my favourite is in Bruntsfield. Find them at 132 Bruntsfield Pl, Edinburgh EH10 4ER.
Epitome of Edinburgh, sleek, minimalist clothing. Find them at 35 Dundas St, Edinburgh EH3 6QQ.
Carnivale Vintage, best vintage in the city (in my opinion), knowledgeable staff, two locations, but my favourite is 51 Bread St, Edinburgh EH3 9AH.
The Write Stuff, stationery shop in the Stockbridge neighbourhood, near Rare Birds bookshop (mentioned above). Find them at 43 Raeburn Pl, Edinburgh EH4
City Guide by Alley Marie Jordan @garden_historian_alleymarie